Just six days into 2014 and the best of british menswear design has already graced London catwalks. London Collections, male edition, was serious business last week. Dylan Jones ceremonioulsy took hive inviting none other than Christopher Kane, Lou Dalton and other big names Hackett and MAN amongst others to dominate the fashion world for no less than three days; inviting us to expect wide necklines, asymmetric tailoring and big BLOCK colouring come September later this year. Who more credible to pull this extravanganza together than the chief of masculinity (I.E. GQ's very own)? Whilst many females across the country were in awe of the male models, at work and off (might I mention David Gandy front row? swoon indeed), the rest of us fashion bunnies were most inevitably admiring Burberry Porsum's native american carpet bags. Unexpected, yet making the style transition from summer to autumn that bit sleeker in 2014. This totally mirrors the slickness of this years London Collections, being widely praised for its time efficiency and ease.
Camouflage and Khaki's
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| source: London Collections (Lou Dalton) |
Lets talk colour... or sludge, tonal colour shall we say. Lou Dalton began the event this year, and went against the popular colour blocking trend the likes of John Smedley and Nichols sent wibes over. Dalton produced garments in camels, khaki and stone with the odd model breaking the palette in cream white and pastel blue. These came in the form of loose buttoned shirts and light knitted jumpers, perhaps appropriate for layering. Bomber jackets and knit snoods were also in sight in cream. So far, so cowshed. Fabrics you ask? why! what is autumn/winter without cord and polyester. Calvin Klein also emulated this trend today in Milan, but with heavier weight jumpers and metalised trousers - almost inspired by a 90's sci-fi film, killer comfort whilst breaking the (tweed?) mould. If you're loyalties are remaining with autumnal colours this year, head straight to Dalton and Klein.
Pattern
Xander Zhou was predominantly responsible for the super influx of block colour against black at The Hospital Club. Striking red and white lines were ablaze, whilst MAN also struck bold patterned lines in pastel lilacs and grey's. The abstract prints carved their way through the sea of tweed and wool, providing what looks to be a slightly more uplifting colour palette for this years dark months, perhaps inspired by Carven's pink coat from A/W 13? On day two, JW Anderson embraced a similarity, but working it amongst floral prints and super ribbed textures. Perhaps his pieces aren't quite ready to wear material, but we can forecast that that line will flaunt ribbed jumpers in an un-missable rainbow of colours and patterns.
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| source: London Collections (JW Anderson) |
Block Colour
Classic John Smedley, not failing to ruin your (or your grandmothers) expectations. Smedley produced sweaters and cardigans in a slightly less robust range of colours this year, however blues, oranges and maroons fabulously executed his line. Controlled and wearable patterns brought his pieces to an accessible look for men this autumn. Block colouring simply excites a staple pair of jeans or chinos. On day one we also saw Richard Nicholl parade a similar line of colours in coats and chic shirts - transferring the trend for office wear. These lines are what every man wants when he is shopping. Simplicity, versatility and timelessness. In menswear we trust.
Tailoring
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| Source: London Collections (Paul Smith) |
Other designers may have paved a way for alternative trends in the fore coming season, yet Hackett and Paul Smith remained close to the corporate mens territory. Sophisticated tailoring was given in abundance last week. Hackett played slightly more loose and casual this year, with wide fitting rain coats and trousers. However men should be prepared for slightly more high waist fitting and slimmer lapels on jackets, suits and coats. Over at Paul Smith on the final day, Smith took casual to a new corporate innovation. Similar to Burberry Porsum, weave and suede fabrics coming in musical wave patterns were centre stage on shoes. But if theres one winter warmer not to miss, it's the wide wrapped scarf. Effortlessly demonstrated by Smith himself and Rake.
So, the boys are back in town. Wide necklines, block colours, and bold line patterns are what you males should keep on look out for later this year. Heavy ribbed fabrics will keep you snug whilst you stand out in reds and blues. Garments are style accessible, and so chic us females will be justifying any piece as keeping up with 'the boyfriend' trend.
